Black women have long faced a frustrating dilemma with mineral sunscreen. The products promise safer ingredients and immediate sun protection, but they leave an unflattering white cast on dark skin.
AJ Addae, a cosmetic chemist studying chemical biology at UCLA, has solved this long-standing problem. Her innovation changes the very shape of zinc oxide particles to eliminate the ghostly appearance.
The White Cast Problem That Pushed Black Women Away
Mineral sunscreens are popular options for people seeking immediate protection with safer ingredients. However, one huge demographic has consistently avoided these products entirely.
Zinc oxide, a signature ingredient in most mineral sunscreens, produces a white cast on dark skin tones. This unflattering appearance has prompted many to stick with chemical versions instead.
The problem isn’t just cosmetic—it’s exclusionary. When products don’t work for all skin tones, they send a message about who matters in beauty and healthcare.
A Personal Mission to Make Sunscreen Inclusive
Addae’s innovation stems from lived experience and personal frustration. Having dark skin herself, she understood the problem intimately.
“The best sunscreen is one that you’ll wear, and that’s really all where my motivation is for this,” she told ABC7. The statement captures the practical heart of her mission.
If people won’t wear sunscreen because it looks terrible, sun protection becomes inaccessible. Addae recognized that inclusivity directly impacts public health outcomes for Black communities.
Partnering With UCLA to Understand the Science
To develop her formula, Addae joined forces with fellow UCLA scientist Dr. Paul S. Weiss. Together, they worked at the Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center.
Their first step involved understanding why conventional sunscreens leave such a ghostly mark. They literally took apart existing products to examine their composition.
“We took apart conventional sunscreens that use zinc oxide and learned that the white cast comes from agglomeration of these round, somewhat irregular particles of zinc oxide,” Weiss explained. The problem was structural, not inherent to the ingredient itself.
Changing Particle Shape From Round to Tetrapod
Once they understood the source of the white cast, the solution became clearer. Addae and Weiss decided to change the zinc oxide particles’ shape entirely.
Instead of round, irregular particles that clump together, they formed zinc oxide into tetrapods. These four-pointed structures allow particles to stand apart from each other.
This spacing creates an even layer on the skin without clumping. The tetrapod shape eliminates the agglomeration that causes the white cast problem.
Creating Networks That Disperse Smoothly on Skin
The new particle shape performs differently on skin compared to traditional formulations. The tetrapods form networks that distribute evenly across the skin’s surface.
“It forms these networks, really nice, sustained networks of zinc oxide that disperse really well and smoothly and evenly on the skin,” Addae explained. The technical innovation translates to practical cosmetic elegance.
The zinc oxide still sits on the skin’s surface providing protection. However, the tetrapod structure prevents the visible white residue that plagued previous formulations.
Maintaining UV Protection Without Compromising Safety
Innovation only matters if it actually works for sun protection purposes. Addae’s reinvented formula had to match existing products’ UV-blocking capabilities.
The good news: it does. The new formulation provides similar levels of UV protection found in already established sunscreen products on the market.
This means consumers don’t have to choose between cosmetic elegance and effective sun protection. Addae’s formula delivers both without compromise.
Better for Skin and Better for the Environment
The environmental benefits of Addae’s innovation extend beyond improved user experience. The development process didn’t require solvents used to dissolve UV filters.
Solvents in traditional formulations can harm the environment when washed off into water systems. Eliminating them makes the product better for ecosystems.
This dual benefit—better for dark skin and better for the planet—demonstrates thoughtful innovation. Addae considered multiple stakeholders in her formula development.
Winning $100,000 From Pharrell Williams’ Black Ambition Prize
Addae’s groundbreaking work earned significant recognition and financial support. She won $100,000 from Pharrell Williams’ Black Ambition Prize in November for Sula Labs.
The prize recognized her overarching achievement in innovative entrepreneurship. It validated her approach to closing inclusivity gaps through rigorous science.
Sula Labs, founded by Addae, tests cosmetic products for brands at major retailers. Sephora and Ulta are among the companies utilizing her testing services.
The Prize as Symbol of Impactful Work
For Addae, the Black Ambition Prize represented more than just money. It symbolized broader recognition of her mission’s importance and scale.
“While the prize money is incredible, the win is a symbol that our hard work to close inclusivity gaps in cosmetics and personal care through science has a significant impact and scale,” Addae said upon winning.
She plans to use the funds to further her mission. Her goal remains making personal care products that actually fit everyone regardless of skin tone.
Boosting Diversity in Beauty and Skincare
As a groundbreaking cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur, Addae has dedicated her platform to representation. She actively works to boost diversity in beauty and skincare industries.
Her work challenges the industry’s historic neglect of darker skin tones. She’s proving that inclusive products require intentional scientific innovation.
Addae represents a new generation of scientists addressing gaps their predecessors ignored. She’s using her expertise to democratize access to safe, effective skincare.
The Market Launch That Changes Everything
Addae’s no-white-cast sunscreen will hit markets soon. This launch represents a significant moment for Black consumers seeking mineral sun protection.
For the first time, Black people of all skin tones can access mineral sunscreen without compromise. They won’t have to choose between safety and appearance.
The innovation provides another avenue for feeling included in the latest beauty products. What seemed like a simple cosmetic concern actually represented systemic exclusion.
Redefining What Inclusive Beauty Actually Means
Addae’s sunscreen innovation demonstrates what true inclusivity requires in beauty. It’s not enough to market products to diverse consumers—products must actually work for them.
Real inclusion demands scientific innovation, not just advertising diversity. Addae invested time, research, and expertise into solving a problem others ignored.
Her success proves that when scientists with lived experience tackle problems, they create better solutions. Representation in STEM fields directly impacts product quality for underserved communities. AJ Addae is living proof that diversity in science benefits everyone.